The story about Dark Lord
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Features brand
First Fashion Show
October 3, 1943
place of birth
Tokio, Japan
fashion designer
costume designer
art worker
born at height of war
Yoji Yamamoto was born in Tokyo at the height of world war II. 2 years later, the bombing of Hiroshima and Nagasaki plunged the whole of Japan into mourning. His father, who was forcibly taken into the army, died in the war. These events reflected on the mother of the designer Fumi: for the rest of her life, she went in mourning black.
Even at the age of 4, he understood that life can be cruel. He has seen devastating wars, felt despair, hunger, and fear. Yoji remembers that he only wanted to protect his mother.

Fumi worked as a dressmaker for 16 hours a day in her small shop. There wasn't much material, so she tried to use every scrap of fabric. Yoji, watching her work, loved to draw models of things, cut and sew.
To please Fumi, Yoji graduated from law school. But most of all, he wanted to help his mother with her work. Fumi was unhappy with her son's decision, but agreed and sent him to study at the prestigious Japanese fashion school Bunka Fashion Collage. Future couturiers studied at the same College: Issei Miyake and Kenzo Takada.
Fumi sold her store so that Yoji could start a business. His style became recognizable from the very beginning: the designer erased the line between male and female, chose a dark color of fabrics and rejected symmetry
The first fashion show at 1977 of the women's collection for y'3 TM
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«The main idea of the Y's line is to dress women in men's clothing. Women's clothing should be armor that protects the body»
Key features of the collection:
black colour
collarless jackets shirts with asymmetrical sleeves
and first man's collection fashion show was at 1984
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Yamamoto makes costumes for Puccini's Opera «Madame butterfly». In future he will create concert outfits for the band Placebo and for films by Japanese Director Takeshi Kitano. The designer writes music for his shows and sometimes performs it himself, sitting behind the stage.
Receives the «Chevalier de L'Ordre des Arts et des Lettres»& Nomination from the French Minister of Culture& Receives the 12th Mainichi Fashion Award, Tokyo& Designs costumes for the Kanagawa Art Festival Opera&
The main and first concept of Yamamoto clothing is to protect the female body from men's eyes and cold wind. The androgynous style of the collections shifts attention from the body to the face. According to Yoji, it is the face that is the source of sexuality.
Distinctive features of the style of Yamamoto
«The more a woman hides her sexuality with clothes, the more sexuality appears in her eyes»
«Black is both modest and noble. Casual and comfortable and yet mysterious. But most of all, black is a message to others: I don't bother you, and you don't bother me»
Yoji has a special love for black for several reasons:
Fumi, the designer's mother, wore only black clothes
Yoji associates black with the sea, which is a mixture of all the other color
Black color does not distract from the main thing: the style and texture of the fabric
Black protects from others
Closed and a relaxed fit
The closed cut saves you from the weather and protects you from unnecessary, unkind looks. The fashion designer believes that clothing that fits the figure "suffocates" the body and kills freedom. The loose fit creates a space between the body and the fabric, so the person feels free.
Yamamoto's clothing is transformed by layers and multiple pockets, zippers, and bandages. In addition, most models are only available in one universal size.
Yoji starts creating perfumes under his own brand. The designer named the first perfume after himself — YOHJI.
Yohji releases perfume under his own brand
Mans Collection
Womans collections:
Yohji Homme
Yohji Pour Homme
His Love Story
Yohji Essential
Yohji Senses
Yohji Pour Femme
Her Love Story
Jean-Michel Duriez
Jean Kerleo
Jean-Pierre Bethouart
Dorothee Piot
In 2001, Yamamoto invited Adidas to design elegant sportswear, shoes, and accessories together. The new brand was named Y-3. In an interview, Yoji admits that he was struck by the ugliness of Adidas sneakers, so he offered to help them. In another interview, the designer says that he asked the company for sneakers for his show. After that, Adidas offered to cooperate.
In 2013, the New Era brand and Yamamoto created a capsule collection of caps, backpacks and jackets. The collection is presented in black. Some models of caps have a silver plate with Yamamoto's signature engraved on it.
In 2015, the Hello Kitty brand asked Yoji Yamamoto to head a new Kitty's line. Yamamoto's team took on product development, production, and branding. The collection includes accessories and clothing featuring characters from the Hello Kitty and My Melody Universe.
Documentary about Yohji Yamamoto
«Notes on clothing and cities»
— My own experience is that I am my mother's only son. My life is dedicated to this amazing woman. It was all for her. Our world has always been ruled by men. This is a man's world, so I have to protect her constantly. I revere women. And when I create models for them, I say, «Can I help you?»
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